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Sunday, October 08, 2006

what to say again a wonderful sunday ! slept all up to 9 o clock and then turned on the computer and surfed @

after a while went to hospital and went out to have a nice lunch at dakshin the veg !
wow the meal was wonder ful ! after wards went to church !

hai any one want any tips on how to breed fighter fish and to train ur fish use these tips ok ( beta ) !
please take down the notes !


HOW TO CONDITION YOUR FIGHTER BETTAS:
The first rule is making sure that both male and female parents come from the best bloodlines. The good fighter always conveys good shape, bright color and smart etc.
Select the best young betta(s) from the crowd when they are about 7-8 months old.
The fry that grow in a community tank have softer skin and their scales are not smooth or slippery enough to tolerate hard biting from a sharp teeth opponent. They need to be kept individually in a 1/2 - 1 gallon container (a jar or bottle or earth pot) for priming for about 2 weeks.
Transfer the fish into an earth pot approx. 6 inches tall and 10 inches wide, filled with clean and aged water with temperature at about 70 - 80 degree Farenheit.
Put one dry Indian almond leaf (6” x 10” inches in size.) in the water. The leaf will harden and coat the skin and scales.
*Leave it for at least 7 days (up to 10 days) while the water gradually changes into brown color.
In Thai we call it “Mug Pla” or “Priming the Fish”.
Feed the betta with 8-12 mosquito larvae or other type of live foods (if available) once a day, no more no less, and he should be fed at a certain time of the day. Keep him in the dark and quiet place. *Feed him for at least 7 days (up to 10 days).
*On the 8th or 11th day, transfer him into a prepared bottle with clean and aged water. Put one small floating plant as fish bed.
You will find your betta at prime condition. He will have bright colors, dark head, very strong, smart and very handsome, with full fins.
Be careful not to place the bottle in the direct sun light. Avoid over heating or too low temperature.
Actually I use these steps to cure my sick betta or for growing the fins back and found that it gives me the best result.
HOW TO TRAIN AND CONDITION YOUR FIGHTER BETTAS:
The purposes of CONDITIONING your fish are as follow:
For good health. He will develop good shape and color.
Keeping the betta alert and lively.
Prepare the betta for fighting.
To preserve and improve the bloodline and quality of this fighting strain.
There are four courses of exercise, each has its own purpose:
Chasing the minor fish to develop prey and fighting drive. (Parn Pla)
Sexual enticement to stimulate the urge to mate, thus displaying his male dominance and protective drive. (Yawk Pla)
Water swirling to increase his strength and hardiness. (Pun Pla)
Scoop (Krabuey) dipping to socialize the fish with water movement.
1. Chasing the minor fish to develop prey and fighting drive. (Parn Pla)
Transfer the fish that has been kept in the earth pot (after priming) into a square glass tank with about 1 litre of water. Leave the fish alone for 3 days.
On the fourth day, shift the fish into the 25 liters (5-7 gallon) glass tank.
Put 5 -7 small female Bettas and some weeds for the female Bettas to hide into the glass tank.
On the first day of encounter, the male Betta may not be so active in chasing the females. But, by the second day, you will see the male actively chasing the females.
Allow the male to chase the females for no more than half an hour a day.
Do it for approximately 5-7 days.
Your fish will slowly develop self confidence and get plenty of exercise by chasing the females.
You should be able to observe by the third day that the male will be chasing the females at a faster speed and more forcefully. Your fish is ready to fight.
2. Sexual enticement to stimulate the urge to mate, displaying male dominance and protective drive (Yawk Pla)
The purpose is to stimulate his male dominance and build up his confidence to create protective and aggressive drive of the fish.
You can see the most beautiful stage of your betta in this course of exercise.
Put an adult female ready for mating (full of eggs; stomach slightly yellow color) in another jar or smaller tank. (Minimum 1 gallon of water)
Add an underwater plant or dry Indian almond leaf for the female to hide in case the male decides to attack the female.
Then put the male in.
In Thai word we call "Yawk Pla" (It means "teasing").
The male will go around the tank spreading all of his fins showing off to his female.
This turn he will not attack the female but swim around showing his power and beauty. (Actually he wants to mate).
This course should not be longer than 5 minutes and make sure you do not allow them to do real mating at this time.
The benefit of this course for certain female is that the female which had previous problem not allowing the male to mate (may be because of fear) will reduce the anti-male behavior and be willing to mate; also her eggs will be rapidly growing in number. This is the event that you can take great photos to see the beauty and the brightness of the colors of the fish.
3. Water swirling to increase his strength and hardiness.
The purpose is to increase his strength and hardiness of your fish.
Find a round basin or bowl of approx. 10 inches in radius and 12 inches tall with clean water.
Put the betta in and slowly swirl the water.
Your betta will try to swim against the current.
This exercise should not last longer than 5 minutes, and must be stopped immediately if your betta has no energy to swim against the current (will lag off and swim with the current).
The drawback of this exercise is that the betta thinks that he is weak and loses his confidence if he can‘t keep up with the speed of the current. Today, some betta trainers in Thailand do not apply this course because of this reason.
4. Scoop (Krabuey) dipping to socialize the fish with water movement.
This process called "Krok" aims to make the fish familiar with the dipping of the scoop when used to transfer him from jar to jar, bottle to bottle or tank to tank. First, dip the scoop into the jar and take a scoopful of water out (causing water movement and pressure) and pour the water back into the jar slowly (making noise and bubbles under the water). Keep doing this several times a day until the fish is not frightened or afraid of the sight and sound of the scoop activity. He may even come close to the scoop and start fighting it.
These are the 4 main types of training & conditioning that betta enthusiasts should follow regularly to keep your betta healthy, beautiful, colorful and most important of all, to develop and improve the good betta species.
THE MULTIPLE BENEFITS OF THE DRY INDIAN ALMOND LEAVES
We use Indian Almond leaves for different purposes. Basically the leaf releases these anti-bacterial substances into the water and the water gradually turn brown like hot tea color.
For over 35 years of experience in raising bettas, I uncovered the multiple benefits of this herbal leaf.
1. We put one leaf in a 10 - 15 gallon tank to keep the fishes healthy and active and it will extend to almost double the water changing cycle. (leave the leaf in for about 1 - 2 weeks).
***We recommend overnight aged water with minimum amount or none of chlorine***
2. We put the leaf in a breeding tank to increase breeding frequency in your fish and keep the fry healthy and alert and improve their vitality. (Put a new dry leaf in every 3 - 4 weeks and discard it after 1 week. Repeat this until the fries are 4 months old).
3. To cure sick fish having any type of bacterial infections. Please consult your veterinarian initially if your fish is ill or needs preventive care. The usage of indian almond leaves is an alternative. (Put a dry leaf in a 1/2 - 1 gallon jar or bottle and keep the fish in for 10 - 14 days. Avoid any direct sun light, but keep the temperature around 70 - 82 degrees F.) Feed the fish preferably with live food such as live larvae or blood worms once a day at the same time of the day.
4. To speed up the healing process for damaged fins or bodily injuries. Put 1 dry leaf and the fish in a 1/2 - 1 gallon jar or bottle with temperature around 70 - 82 degrees F. for 2 - 3 weeks. Avoid direct sunlight and feed the fish preferably with live food such as live larvae or blood worms once a day. This will help grow the fins back faster and keep the skin and scales healthy again.
5. We use the leaf to condition our fighter bettas. We prime our young bettas when they are ready to be transferred from the community tank to an individual tank. (The process lasts 2 to 3 weeks. 6. The dominant young male betta loves to build bubble nest under the floating whole leaf in the community tank to claim his territory and fight off or chase away other male bettas who challenge him.
7. Put a dry Indian Almond leaf and let it float on the surface. The male will build bubble nest under the dry leaf. Put another dry leaf on the bottom to allow female to hide from male attack. The water will become brownish to simulate its natural habitat.
**Dosage of crushed leaves for your bettas: Put approximately 4 - 5 square inches of leaf to treat 1/2 gallaon of water and 6 - 7 square inches to treat 1 gallon jar of water.
KETAPANG LEAVES OR HUU KWANG LEAVES OR DRY INDIAN ALMOND LEAVES
Indian Almond leaves - the so called Asian Breeding Secret Recipe which creates a natural environment and induces spawning.
Ketapang or Huu Kwang Leaves
Most of the tropical fishes that lives in the rivers and lakes, their natural and best environment is Black Water. Black water have a distinctive brownish tea like colour and contain many dissolved organic materials.
It was first noticed that fishes living around the water where the ketapang/Huu Kwang/Indian Almond trees grew are found much more vibrant, beautiful and healthy. Thus started the practice of putting in ketapang/Huu Kwang/Indian Almond leaves into aquariums to try and achieve the same condition as those found in their natural environment.
The ketapang/Huu Kwang/Indian Almond tree is a big 'pagoda-shaped' tree with distinctly tiered branching. The origin of the tree is in Malaysia and Thailand. A noted pecularity of this species is the tendency for its leaves to turn bright red and fall - a rarity in the tropics where most trees remain evergreen throughout the year. The bark, fruit and leaves of the tree have traditionally been used to treat various ailments ranging from skin disease, dysentery, headaches and colic in children. Research has identified properties which could be used in treating hypertension.
Ketapang/Huu Kwang (TERMINALIA CATAPPA, or commonly called tropical almond, badamier, Java almond, amandier de Cayenne, wild almond, Indian almond, myrobalan, Malabar almond, Singapore almond, Huu kwang, Sea almond, kobateishi) tree is known to produce a poison in its leaves and sap to defend against insect parasites. When the dried leaves falls into the river, a strong brown dye is given off. The dye is full of organic acids like humic and tannins.
So the dried Ketapang/Huu Kwang/Indian Almond leaves actually release organic acids like humic and tannins which lowers the pH of the water, absorbs harmful chemicals and help create a soothing and calm environment for the fish.
What is Humic Acid? Is it a mixture of several organic acids? Humic acids are a complex mixture of partially "decomposed" and otherwise transformed organic materials. The freshwater humic acids can come from a variety of sources, most of which are on land (decomposing terrestrial vegetation.) These substances wash into lakes and rivers, undergoing further transformations along the way, and ultimately into the ocean.
Humic acid contains Sulfur, Nitrogen and Phosphorus in varying amounts. It also contains metals such as Ca, Mg, Cu, Zn etc. which can be 'chelated' in some undefined way. Humic acid can be broken down into two groups based on the polarity and size of the individual 'compounds'.
The smaller, more polar fraction is generally termed fulvic acid and the larger, more non-polar fraction is generally termed humic acid. Humic acids are the end product of microbial degradation of plant and animal debris and are one of the most important constituents of fertile soils.
Tannins, lignins and fulvic acids are sub classes of humic acids. They all tint the water yellow.
Tannic and humic acids may be useful for inhibiting many types of bacteria including cyano-bacteria and are fairly benign for your fish.
Another paradoxical effect of humic acids is the detoxification of heavy metals. Humic material and detritus in the aquarium also rapidly absorb and detoxify many chemicals including zinc, aluminum and copper! One might expect them to be made more, not less toxic by humic acids, but the studies seem to indicate a detoxifying effect.
Also important to know: The harder the water the more ineffective the humic acids - - - more exactly: the dissolved lime in the water produces undissolvable calcium humates. So, the higher the water hardness, the higher must be the supply of humates in order to achieve an acidifying effect. The softer the water, the less humates are needed and the better the effect. It creates a natural environment similar to that of the lakes in the tropical rainforest and some area of the Amazon River. It also induces spawning for most soft water and acid loving fishes. Too much of the ketapang/Huu Kwang/Indian Almond leaves may result in too low the water pH.

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